SOLSTICE 2007 - BLOCK MOUNT
In 1980 I moved to Tofino where most of the people I met had a surfboard and wetsuit so they could play in the ocean any month of the year. I remember the first home I bought had a huge furnace in it and the door had a special handmade emblem on it of a surfer. I asked the local man who made it if he surfed and he told me he did in his younger days. He did- n't seem that old to me not to surf. Well here I am at sixty two and I enjoy watching the surfers and remember the last time I surfed which was more than a couple of years ago. I think the same as my old friend, Jim , that the waves can be ridden by the younger ones.
I was in Tofino this month and watched a local surf competi- tion which took me back to those days when I sat on my board off Chesterman Beach waiting for waves.
People think it's just too crazy to be out there in the winter months but that's when some of the best waves can be found and the ocean does not change more than a few degrees between the hottest summer day and the middle of winter. Some of the top surfers in the world are local guys who grew up in Tofino or have moved there to enjoy our west coast surf.
My thanks to Tofino's Jeremy Koreski who took the photo that inspired me, and Raph Bruhwiler, the Tofino surfer who is the surfer in the picture. Times have changed since the 1980's and that change is why this year's solstice inspiration is a surfer leaving footprints in the snow.